Eat the Web, January 14, 2014 – Grain-Free Crackers, Kale and Sausage Soup, Delta Tamales and More

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An amazing selection of Bob’s Red Mill products at a local market.

I made this classic Moosewood dish, African Pineapple Peanut Stew this weekend and it was fantastic.

You can this class—either just audit or take it for a certificate—called Food For Thought. It offers “a scientific framework for understanding food and its impact on health and society from past to present.”

Braised Chicken with Preserved Lemons and Olives from Tasting Table sure sounds really good right now.

Before I read this Southern Foodways Alliance article, I had never heard of Delta tamales. Now  I want to eat a whole plate of them! Two major differences—these are made with cornmeal and are simmered, as opposed to being made with masa and cooked by steaming.

The big local kefuffle over new Mayor De Blasio eating NYC pizza with a knife and fork.

These grain-free crackers from Zen Belly sound really good. I might use cumin seeds in them, too.

Glad to see an injera recipe made with 100% teff from Yum Universe! Looks easy to make, and would go good with Nom Nom Paleo’s recipe for Doro Wat.

These vintage food-oriented posters are a lot of fun.

Food52’s version of an M. Wells’s brussels sprouts salad also looks pretty good.

This Kale and Sausage Soup from Holistic Squid looks like a terrific winter meal.

Food Republic’s Onion Tart is the kind of recipe that encourages me to buy the good puff pastry at Whole Foods. Or learn to make it myself.

My recent meal at Mu Ramen, which was a delight.

I love this Chowhound thread on hole in the wall places in NYC. Not surprising, a lot of them are in Queens (and are awesome).

Eat the Web, August 27, 2013

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The amazing slow baked chicken sandwich at Astor Bake Shop. This is a seriously delicious dish.

A very nice article in the Village Voice on Bear’s chef Natasha Pogrebinsky.

I love Zagat‘s 60 seconds of NYC street food.

My friend Joseph writes about his experience making limoncello.

On NPR’s The Salt we’re told not to wash our chicken, and that Chipotle is keeping its meat antibiotic-free.

Eat the World visits Wasabi Point in Elmhurst and partakes in Bhutanese cuisine.

NPR’s Cosmos & Culture revisits the the topic of sugar’s problematic nature in “Obesity And The Toxic-Sugar Wars.”

101 Cookbooks has a recipe for yellow tomato bloody mary, which sounds delicious to this non-fan of bloody marys.

Serious Eats stops by Sunnyside’s Romanian Garden for sour cream topped donuts and apple strudel.

Food & Wine‘s Raw and Charred Zucchini Salad sounds divine.

Daily Good tells the story of The Nine Nanas in West Tennessee, who have shared gifts of kindness and poundcake anonymously for the past 30 years or so.

Tlacoyos and More at Tacos Morelos in Jackson Heights

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This past weekend, I met up with a group of friends and headed out to Tacos Morelos, a Mexican restaurant on the east end of Jackson Heights that makes traditional antojitos and platters of food. Morelos is a Mexican State south of Mexico City. When I sat down, I was given a menu almost immediately. I was looking forward to digging into it and seeing what they had to offer.

menu-tacos-morelos-jackson-heights-queens

I was happy to see a lot of familiar fare—tacos, huaraches, quesadillas, cemitas, tortas. Also, there were the less common tlacoyos, which excited me. And then the even less familiar tacos placeros, which, according to Sara Markel-Gonzalez of Serious Eats, the term tacos placeros “means different things to different people, but generally are tacos that you can buy in an outdoor plaza in Mexico, usually inexpensive, made with a variety of fillings, but simply prepared.” I expect I could have bought them from the street vendors in downtown Cancun when I was there years ago.

parque-las-palapas-cancun-mexico

Parque las Palapas in Cancun, Mexico.

You can see the food vendor area in the distance. At that point in time I was not open to eating street food much, so I abstained. You better believe I’d be all over that now!

Anyway, about those tacos placeros—I remember seeing one on the menu that included potatoes, and there was also a chile relleno taco. I think next time I’m there I’m going to try them.

The first thing that came out to the table was chips and salsa. The chips were good—nice and light, and came with an excellent salsa that had visible bits of onion and cilantro in it. I also loved the color; the black specks are likely bits of charred chiles. It wasn’t very spicy but had great flavor, and we finished it off pretty quickly.

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For drinks, people at our table ordered beer (Modelo, Pacifico) or micheladas. This Mexican beer cocktail has become easier to find in NYC recently, but for a while there were only a few places (that I knew of) that served them. A basic michelada is essentially beer, lime, and salt. But more commonly they contain hot sauce in addition to the lime and salt.

You can also add chamoy syrup, which contributes an additional tang. A few years back, a friend who lived in Mexico City for a few years showed me how to make a michelada. She got chamoy flavored candy at a local bodega and melted it so that we could taste it; that’s what’s on the rim of the glass. I have had a devil of a time finding chamoy syrup proper in NYC. Here are the micheladas from that evening in 2010:

homemade-micheladas

And here are the micheladas from Tacos Morelos.

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You can see that they were pretty popular! And rightly so—they were extremely tasty. I loved the sourness of the lime, the spice of the hot sauce, and the salt rim was also good.

I, on the other hand, got something non-alcoholic; I was going to a whiskey and bourbon tasting later that evening, so I thought it would be best to pace myself (I have a terribly low tolerance for alcohol). I chose a mora batida—a blackberry shake—with milk. Usually when you order them, they’ll ask you if you want your batida made with water or milk, and I always go with milk, since I like a richer shake.

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It was gorgeous and delicious, with plenty of flavor. I loved the bubbly top of the batida.

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One of our eating companions got a piña colada, which was refreshing and sweet, and quite strong.

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There were a few more piña coladas served to our table later in the meal, too!

Across the table, Jen ordered sopes, another masa-based dish, related to the tlacoyo and huarache. They were three grilled discs of masa topped with beans and chorizo, as well as lettuce and crema. I didn’t get to taste them but she said they were delicious.

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Sopes are one of my favorite things to order in Mexican restaurants here in NYC.

As I mentioned, there were tlacoyos on the menu. I love the word, which has origins in the Nahuatl language, an indigenous language to Mexico and greater Mesoamerica. In this language, the word tlacoyos comes from the Nahuatl word tlatlaolli, which essentially means “ground corn dough.” They are made from masa and shaped into a long torpedo shape. It’s easy to liken them to huaraches, but in my experience huaraches are much larger.

The tlacoyos, about three inches wide and six inches long, came three to a plate ($7.50). I got mine with al pastor (recommended by the wait staff over the carnitas, when it came to pork) with a green sauce, and another person got it topped with goat and a red sauce. Both were excellent! I loved how they were stuffed with mashed black beans, too.

The salsas were spicy and flavorful, but not killer in the heat department (though the red was hotter than the green). I also liked the addition of crema, too, and felt like it tied everything together with its slight tang and creaminess.

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Tlacoyos with al pastor and green sauce.

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Tlacoyos with goat and red sauce.

Tacos Morelos also offers platters of food, and my friend Mark ordered chicken in salsa mora, a specialty at Tacos Morelos. The chile mora is a dried and smoked chile, similar to a chipotle. Lesley Téllez of The Mija Chronicles, talks about the chile mora:

It’s a smoked, dried jalapeño, and therefore classified as a chipotle. But it’s a bit sweeter and more raisin-like than the brown chipotles you see in the markets. It’s also not as hot. (The chile morita, a cousin, is much spicier.)

Mark said the burn was easy at first and increased as he ate it, finishing with something quite hot. I tasted it and really enjoyed the flavor, but only caught the early, baby burn.

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Note the avocado on his plate, some of which ended up on my tlacoyos, because I like avocado on pretty much anything. They were nice, ripe, creamy slices, too.

Another platter of food was ordered, which looks like mole poblano. Whatever it was, it looks fantastic! I’ll have to find out what it was.

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Platters also came with a beautiful plate of black beans and rice. I didn’t try it, but according to Serious Eats, the beans are flavored with epazote, an herb used in traditional Mexican cooking.

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I loved the food here, and look forward to my next trip back. The service was also good and I got to use some of my high school Spanish, always a good thing. It was pretty warm in there, though, with no A/C or visible fans, but despite that I would return in a heartbeat. It’s always good to find well-prepared Mexican food in NYC.

Tacos Morelos, 94-13 37th Ave., Jackson Heights, NY 11372, (347) 832-0193, Yelp, VV, SE 

Food Lover’s Cleanse – The Final Days

The last days of the Food Lover’s Cleanse were scattered, but such is life.  I was able to prepare some of the dishes despite the demands of the week, and for that I’m happy.

Day 11 started not with the compote, but steel cut oats.

I took some cues from similar previous breakfast dishes, and added chopped pecans, currants, cinnamon and chia seeds to the oats, topped with raw milk.  It was pretty good!  I eat a lot of oatmeal in the winter, so I’ll definitely be doing more creative things with it.

Dinner was actually the content of Day 5, and the results were… disappointing.  The menu was beet soup, warm escarole salad, and hanger steak.  This was probably the least successful menu of the cleanse for me.

First, I left out the ginger in the soup, thinking one of my dinner guests hated ginger, but I was wrong – she is ok with it, so without it, it tasted a bit lackluster.  I doctored it up with five times the 5 spice powder, a tablespoon of butter, and a few tablespoons of red wine.  It turned out ok, but not great.

I’d definitely add the ginger next time.

The escarole salad was probably the most successful element of the dinner – I loved the addition of the dijon mustard to the shallot vinaigrette I already had on hand.  It helped ameliorate the bitterness of the escarole, too.  It’s not a very pretty dish, and I forgot to take a picture.

Cooking the hanger steak also proved quite daunting – my first go around yielded a very rare steak.  We cooked it a couple times more to get it to medium, a process which is just too funky.  I have a lot to learn about cooking a steak, and blame my 13 years as a vegetarian for the lack of skills in this area.

So, after asking for steak cooking tips (I got some great ones!) on Facebook, a friend invited me into their home on Friday and taught me how to do it right.  I learned a lot and look forward to the next time I have the opportunity to cook one.  I will say – both times, the hanger steak had great beefy flavor.  Definitely one of my favorite cuts of beef.

Thursday and Friday were kind of off as far as the cleanse goes, but I did manage to have a healthy smoked salmon and chevre omelet on Thursday night, and as I mentioned above, my friend taught me how to cook a steak Friday night.

Oh, and Thursday morning I prepared the coconut oat pilaf, which I just did not care for – savory oatmeal, to me, is just the oddest thing, and I find it hard to get my head around the concept.  To me, oatmeal is always on the sweet side.  I ended up eating it with a little maple syrup and raw cream.  Odd, but it made the whole thing more palatable.

Saturday morning, I prepared the garam masala tofu dish for brunch, but substituted pastured eggs for the tofu.  It worked out really well!  I was dubious at first – dried cranberries in eggs?  It worked, and worked well.

I split Day 14‘s dinner into two meals.  Saturday night I made the curry – substituting sweet potatoes (I have a ton of them right now) for the squash, as well as using full fat coconut milk and coconut oil.  Really great dish, and raw yogurt on top is a perfect accompaniment.  The recipe made a lot of food, so I was able to have it again tonight along with the cumin cilantro chicken, which was fabulous.  Marinating boneless skinless chicken breasts for an extended time in yogurt seems to work really well as a tenderizer.

I also loved that I shared the final meal of the cleanse with friends.  I definitely want to cook more for friends this year.

So this is the end of the Food Lover’s Cleanse!  I’ve really enjoyed these past couple of weeks, and have learned a lot along the way.  I’ll write a wrap up in the next couple of days, with my sentiments and observations on the whole process.

The Best Chicken Salad

chicken salad on csa lettuce

Earlier this spring, I rediscovered chicken salad; I’m not actually sure why I had forgotten about it.  I used to love chicken salad sandwiches I’d eat from the deli while at grad school (the bread was always a little stale), but I wonder now what exactly was in those sandwiches…

I’ve made this particular chicken salad a half dozen times since May already.  It is just so good.  The list of ingredients isn’t extensive, which is probably why it works so well for my taste.  I’ve made a few adjustments, including making the mayonnaise from scratch.

mayo

I used the mayonnaise recipe from Nourishing Traditions and I love it!  I didn’t have any whey handy, so this mayo will only last a couple of weeks; I have plans to make lacto-fermented mayo soon.  I used a combination of extra virgin olive oil and expeller pressed organic sunflower oil, which are much better fats than the canola and soybean oil you’ll often find in commercial mayo.  I once made mayonnaise with all olive oil and didn’t really like it – it was too intense for me and didn’t taste much like mayo.

The mayo is also a wonderful yellow color, thanks to the excellent pastured eggs I have access to.

One of the predominate flavors in this chicken salad is tarragon, an herb I never paid much attention to.  I was never a real fan of it, but since I’ve been making this salad, I’ve become its champion.  I got a beautiful bunch of it in the first week’s CSA share, and was happy to use it in the chicken salad.  In fact, I pumped up the amount of tarragon, I love it so much.

I also switched out the original cranberries for apples.  I think the apples are so perfect in this salad, giving a level of sweetness that I think is absolutely delicious.  Apples and walnuts are a classic pairing, too.

topped with mayo

Chicken breasts work well in this salad (I poach them) but really any leftover chicken will do, be it roasted, grilled, or whatever.

chicken salad

Apple-Walnut Chicken Salad
Adapted from smitten kitchen, who adapted it quite loosely from Gourmet

4 cups cubed (1/2 inch) cooked chicken (about 1 3/4 lb), pastured if possible
1 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped
1 celery rib, diced into small bits (1 cup)
2 or more tablespoons finely chopped shallot
1 apple, cored and cubed (no need to peel it)
2/3 to 3/4 cup mayonnaise (homemade is best)
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Toss together all ingredients in a large bowl until combined well.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

This post is participating in Fight Back Friday hosted by Food Renegade.

Stewing Hen Goodness

On Sunday, I took the stewing hen I bought earlier this month through my buying club, and boiled it up, resulting in both meat and a luscious broth.  The meat really is tough – the stewing hen is a chicken past her egg-laying prime; no spring chicken, ha ha!  This is a true free-range bird, so it’s understandable about the meat’s texture.  However, it yielded probably the most delicious chicken broth I’ve ever tasted.

broth

I could have just stuck the whole bird in the pot with its integrity intact, but I chose to butcher it a bit.  I cut off the wings and legs, and left the rest alone – I further exposed the bone because I wanted to make sure that I’d have a good chance for the broth to be gelatin-rich.  Then I added half a chopped yellow onion, three large garlic cloves and a tablespoon or two of Mexican oregano.   Finally, I added a teaspoon of fine sea salt.

I boiled the hen for a couple of hours, then set the pieces out to cool down enough for me to handle then.  I shred the meat and will have it available this week for tacos, sandwiches, or chicken salad.  Since the meat is tough, I’ll store it immersed in the broth, which I hope will tenderize it.  I added an additional teaspoon of sea salt to the broth, and that was the perfect amount of seasoning.  Since I’ve cut back on sugar, my sensitivity to both sweet and salty has heightened, and I now find overly salty things to be much more intense than they used to be.

stewing hen collage

I strained out the veggies and herbs from the broth, and set the pot in the fridge to cool down overnight.  By tonight I’ll have a better idea of its gelatinous quality and the amount of fat in it (I’ll scrape that off it there’s enough, and use it for other things).  I’m going to freeze a bunch of the broth, but also leave some in the fridge for when I cook quinoa and millet this week.  Cooking the grains in this broth will make them even more nourishing and healthful.  Not to mention delicious!

Usually when I make stock, I use the carcas of a roasted chicken.  This is the first time I’d actually bought a chicken for the express purpose of stewing it and collecting the meat after the fact.  I’m looking forward to seeing how it works out this week.

final result

This was the first week in I don’t know how long, that I planned out my meals for the week.   I’m happy about this, and I have a lot of great meals in store.  Plotting out the week I expect will make lunches easier to handle, too.  Too often I just eat out, and I’d like to not do that so much (once a week, tops).  Bad for the pocketbook and the waistline, since it’s challenging to find truly nourishing food near my office.

I’m also starting a running training schedule this week, with my goal of running a 4 mile race in mid-Jully.  I miss racing and running, and really want to start up again; I’m really excited to “get back on the horse”, as they say.  I sustained a bad ankle injury a bit over a year ago, and have found it difficult to get back into running.  Having a schedule should make it easier to keep at it.

Here’s to an active, interesting, and delicious week!

Salsa Verde Chicken

salsa verde chicken bowl

I’ve eaten many, many chicken breasts (boneless/skinless) in my days. Unfortunately, many of them have been tasteless, with texture like sawdust. There’s a salad place near my office that serves chicken breasts just like that. When I first tasted them, I couldn’t believe how bad they were, or that any place would be ok with selling something of that questionable quality. Needless to say, I don’t eat them there anymore.

(We ate them weekly when I was a kid, and I don’t remember them being so devoid of flavor then.)

Fortunately, I have discovered wonderful chicken breasts that actually taste like chicken! I get them through my CSA and they are delicious. These are chickens that run around on pasture, eat bugs, and lead a generally good life.  This kind of chicken is always going to produce tastier meat.

March 20102

Usually I grill chicken breasts, but I’ve gotten tired of cooking them that way, and have wanted to find other ways to prepare them. I’ve tried poaching them in spiced/herbed water, but they end up being devoid of fat. Baking them is dissatisfying. What to do?

My current favorite way of cooking them is pan-frying them in coconut oil, which is an excellent fat that lends rich flavor and adds extra nutrition.  Then I chop them up and simmer them in salsa verde – one of my favorite sauces. I like eating them with a little cheese on gorditas, or even by themselves.

I was fortunate enough to find in my freezer a bag of salsa verde I’d made last summer from tomatillos I grew in my community garden.  I find homemade salsa verde to be far superior to anything in a jar, but if you’re stretched for time, using salsa from a jar works just fine.

salsa verde chix

Salsa Verde Chicken

1 full chicken breast
2 tablespoons coconut oil
sea salt and pepper

3 cups salsa verde, either homemade or jarred

Rinse and fully dry the chicken breasts.  Cut them into strips, then into smaller chunks.  Season them with salt and pepper.

Fry in the coconut oil until just cooked through.  Set aside.

Put the salsa verde in a saucepan and heat to a simmer.

When the chicken has cooled a bit, chop the chicken up into smaller pieces, as small as you like. Mine tended to be in general about 1/2 inch in size.

Put the chicken in the sauce and simmer for another 15-20 minutes.

Serve topped with grated cheese and/or sour cream, served over gorditas, tortillas, or the whole grain of your choice.

This dish is even better the day after!

Serves 4.