Tlacoyos and More at Tacos Morelos in Jackson Heights

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This past weekend, I met up with a group of friends and headed out to Tacos Morelos, a Mexican restaurant on the east end of Jackson Heights that makes traditional antojitos and platters of food. Morelos is a Mexican State south of Mexico City. When I sat down, I was given a menu almost immediately. I was looking forward to digging into it and seeing what they had to offer.

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I was happy to see a lot of familiar fare—tacos, huaraches, quesadillas, cemitas, tortas. Also, there were the less common tlacoyos, which excited me. And then the even less familiar tacos placeros, which, according to Sara Markel-Gonzalez of Serious Eats, the term tacos placeros “means different things to different people, but generally are tacos that you can buy in an outdoor plaza in Mexico, usually inexpensive, made with a variety of fillings, but simply prepared.” I expect I could have bought them from the street vendors in downtown Cancun when I was there years ago.

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Parque las Palapas in Cancun, Mexico.

You can see the food vendor area in the distance. At that point in time I was not open to eating street food much, so I abstained. You better believe I’d be all over that now!

Anyway, about those tacos placeros—I remember seeing one on the menu that included potatoes, and there was also a chile relleno taco. I think next time I’m there I’m going to try them.

The first thing that came out to the table was chips and salsa. The chips were good—nice and light, and came with an excellent salsa that had visible bits of onion and cilantro in it. I also loved the color; the black specks are likely bits of charred chiles. It wasn’t very spicy but had great flavor, and we finished it off pretty quickly.

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For drinks, people at our table ordered beer (Modelo, Pacifico) or micheladas. This Mexican beer cocktail has become easier to find in NYC recently, but for a while there were only a few places (that I knew of) that served them. A basic michelada is essentially beer, lime, and salt. But more commonly they contain hot sauce in addition to the lime and salt.

You can also add chamoy syrup, which contributes an additional tang. A few years back, a friend who lived in Mexico City for a few years showed me how to make a michelada. She got chamoy flavored candy at a local bodega and melted it so that we could taste it; that’s what’s on the rim of the glass. I have had a devil of a time finding chamoy syrup proper in NYC. Here are the micheladas from that evening in 2010:

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And here are the micheladas from Tacos Morelos.

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You can see that they were pretty popular! And rightly so—they were extremely tasty. I loved the sourness of the lime, the spice of the hot sauce, and the salt rim was also good.

I, on the other hand, got something non-alcoholic; I was going to a whiskey and bourbon tasting later that evening, so I thought it would be best to pace myself (I have a terribly low tolerance for alcohol). I chose a mora batida—a blackberry shake—with milk. Usually when you order them, they’ll ask you if you want your batida made with water or milk, and I always go with milk, since I like a richer shake.

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It was gorgeous and delicious, with plenty of flavor. I loved the bubbly top of the batida.

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One of our eating companions got a piña colada, which was refreshing and sweet, and quite strong.

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There were a few more piña coladas served to our table later in the meal, too!

Across the table, Jen ordered sopes, another masa-based dish, related to the tlacoyo and huarache. They were three grilled discs of masa topped with beans and chorizo, as well as lettuce and crema. I didn’t get to taste them but she said they were delicious.

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Sopes are one of my favorite things to order in Mexican restaurants here in NYC.

As I mentioned, there were tlacoyos on the menu. I love the word, which has origins in the Nahuatl language, an indigenous language to Mexico and greater Mesoamerica. In this language, the word tlacoyos comes from the Nahuatl word tlatlaolli, which essentially means “ground corn dough.” They are made from masa and shaped into a long torpedo shape. It’s easy to liken them to huaraches, but in my experience huaraches are much larger.

The tlacoyos, about three inches wide and six inches long, came three to a plate ($7.50). I got mine with al pastor (recommended by the wait staff over the carnitas, when it came to pork) with a green sauce, and another person got it topped with goat and a red sauce. Both were excellent! I loved how they were stuffed with mashed black beans, too.

The salsas were spicy and flavorful, but not killer in the heat department (though the red was hotter than the green). I also liked the addition of crema, too, and felt like it tied everything together with its slight tang and creaminess.

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Tlacoyos with al pastor and green sauce.

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Tlacoyos with goat and red sauce.

Tacos Morelos also offers platters of food, and my friend Mark ordered chicken in salsa mora, a specialty at Tacos Morelos. The chile mora is a dried and smoked chile, similar to a chipotle. Lesley Téllez of The Mija Chronicles, talks about the chile mora:

It’s a smoked, dried jalapeño, and therefore classified as a chipotle. But it’s a bit sweeter and more raisin-like than the brown chipotles you see in the markets. It’s also not as hot. (The chile morita, a cousin, is much spicier.)

Mark said the burn was easy at first and increased as he ate it, finishing with something quite hot. I tasted it and really enjoyed the flavor, but only caught the early, baby burn.

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Note the avocado on his plate, some of which ended up on my tlacoyos, because I like avocado on pretty much anything. They were nice, ripe, creamy slices, too.

Another platter of food was ordered, which looks like mole poblano. Whatever it was, it looks fantastic! I’ll have to find out what it was.

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Platters also came with a beautiful plate of black beans and rice. I didn’t try it, but according to Serious Eats, the beans are flavored with epazote, an herb used in traditional Mexican cooking.

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I loved the food here, and look forward to my next trip back. The service was also good and I got to use some of my high school Spanish, always a good thing. It was pretty warm in there, though, with no A/C or visible fans, but despite that I would return in a heartbeat. It’s always good to find well-prepared Mexican food in NYC.

Tacos Morelos, 94-13 37th Ave., Jackson Heights, NY 11372, (347) 832-0193, Yelp, VV, SE 

Georgian Khachapuri, My Latest Obsession

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Adjaruli Khachapuri, a variety of the famous Georgian cheese bread. Image source: DanielSedoff on Wikimedia Commons

Actually, Georgian food as a whole is on my mind, but khachapuri, the ubiquitous Georgian cheese bread, in particular has really caught my attention. But let me back up a little bit and wander slightly away from bread and into the greater Georgian cuisine.

I first got a taste of Georgian food during an evening in 2009 of The Sunday Night Dinner, which is an underground supper club run by my friend Tamara. The title of that evening’s dinner was Ramadan, Deconstructed, With A Little Georgian Influence. The food was spectacular—here is the menu from that night:

Spicy Caramel Popcorn
Fatoush
Grilled Duck with Tomato/Sesame/Saffron Sauce
Rice Pilaf with those Dates
Green Beans with Cinnamon and Clove and a Garlic Yogurt Sauce*
Beets with Sour Cherry Sauce*
Qatayef married to Jean Halberstrom’s Fried Peaches

The two dishes I marked with an asterisk were the Georgian dishes. I absolutely loved them! They had fresh, vibrant flavors that really took my palate by storm. Here’s a shot of the green bean dish—that is a fantastic amount of mint, too.

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And as a lover of beets, you can bet I was really into the beets with sour cherry sauce dish. Sadly, I did not take a photo of it. I probably was so eager to dig in, I forgot to pull out my camera for that.

As an aside, the other dishes that night were absolutely delicious, including the amazing dessert of peaches and qatayef, a kind of pancake popular during Ramadan that is often filled with things like cheese or nuts). In fact, as I write this we are in the middle of Ramadan, and one of my favorite shops on Steinway, Al-Sham Sweets, makes a wonderful version.

But back to Georgian food. I think some of the reasons I like this particular cuisine are how flavorful the food is, as well as the Middle Eastern and Central Asian influences. There are plenty of fresh vegetables, meats (grilled meats known as shashlik, and sausages, such as kupati, both popular in the Kakheti region), yogurt and cheeses, pickles, walnuts, fresh herbs, plus there are the giant dumplings, khinkali. They look like soup dumplings and are filled with broth and beef. Regarding khinkali, I really like this video—I can’t understand Russian (yet), but love that they make the dough from scratch, and show how to cook and eat the dumplings (including a “Master Khinkali”—indeed, it’s big).

Georgia also has a long tradition of wine making—as far back as 6,000 BCE—with vines throughout the country. In the earliest days of wine making, they’d bury wine in pits and let it ferment over winter.

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Georgian grapevines. Image source: Wikimedia Commons 

According to Wikipedia, “wine is made in the regions of Kakheti (further divided onto micro-regions of Telavi and Kvareli), Kartli, Imereti, Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti, and Abkhazia.” This map easily delineates the different regions in Georgia (tourists are often discouraged to visit the disputed territories of Abkhazia and South Ossetia). Apparently Kakheti is a particularly major player in the Georgian wine scene, and has been called “the cradle of wine” in the country.

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I would love to get my hands on some Georgian wines. I will do some investigating next time I’m in Rego Park and Forest Hills, an area of Queens with a Georgian population (mostly Georgian Jews who left Georgia in the late 20th century). By far, though, Georgians in NYC live in the southern part Brooklyn, and that’s where the restaurants and bakeries are. NYC is home to the largest enclave of Georgians in the United States.

But back to khachapuri. As it is so common (some people like to call it Georgian pizza, perhaps because both can be round and cheesy), there are variants. In Georgia, it will be stuffed with sulguni, a pickled cheese from the Samegrelo region, which apparently the United States doesn’t import (maybe I’ll try to make it sometime). Bakers here have figured out a workaround, and they often combine mozzarella and feta, plus butter to create as close an approximation as possible.

Many are named after their region. The most well known is the Imeretian (a.k.a. Imeruli) khachapuri. This is what most people think of when their hear khachapuri—it’s round and filled with cheese and really does look pizza-like.

Then there is the Adjarian (a.k.a. Acharuli/Adjaruli) khachapuri, which is pictured at the top of this post. That’s actually the very first style I laid eyes on (virtually). The dough is formed into a sort of open boat shape. When the bread comes out of the oven, it is topped with a raw egg and butter, which of course cooks the egg somewhat and melts the butter. I dream of eating this kind of khachapuri.

Wikipedia has a great list of regional khachapuri, including Mingrelian (Megruli), Abkhazian (Achma), Ossetian (Ossuri), Svanuri, Rachuli, and Phenovani. I’d love to try the Ossetian in particular, because of the inclusion of potato in the filling.

Some Georgian breads can be baked in an oven called a toné, which is like a tandoori oven. A convection oven is often used to make various kinds of khachapuri. Check out this great video by James Boo on Serious Eats of khachapuri—you can see examples of what looks like the Imeretian and the distinctive Adjarian types of bread.

1 Minute Meal: “Brighton Train to Georgia” from James Boo on Vimeo.

I spend so much time eating in Queens, that traveling to one of the far corners of Brooklyn is a real adventure. I expect to head down there soon, so stay tuned for a first hand report of my projected devouring of khachapuri. I plan to hit up bakeries Georgian Bread and Georgian Food a.k.a. Brick Oven Bread, both in Brighton Beach. A stop at Tibilisi Restaurant or Prisomani may also be in the cards, if only to chow down on a plate of khinkali, and maybe some borscht and eggplant with walnut paste. My mouth is watering just thinking about it all.

Carne-Val at The Meatwave – Delicious Pork Barbecue in Astoria

Last Sunday I attended a wonderful Astoria event series, The Meatwave. It’s run by local Astorian Josh Bousel, who really knows his meat and how to cook it. He (and probably his wife, Kristin) comes up with clever titles, and the one for this particular day was “Carne-val.”

There was pulled pork, pepper vinegar barbecue sauce, ribs, chicken—all grilled and/or barbecued. Plus there was a delicious mustard slaw, plenty of beer, and one of the guests offered me one of her s’mores bars. It was all so good and I’m glad I went.

Here are some of the things I ate. First, the pork in two states—whole and pulled. Here’s the before:

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And the after:

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Josh used big black rubber gloves to shred it by hand. He then poured some sort of liquid on it—probably braising liquid, which helped to keep it moist. This batch of meat was cooked in foil. There was another chunk of pork he had cooked without foil, which promised great bark. All I know is that they was truly delicious and made for a great pulled pork sandwich. Here it is—on a appropriately squishy Martin’s Potato Roll—with the aforementioned slaw.

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The ribs were great, too! I believe they were in the smoker and then grilled with a sweeter barbecue sauce. I loved the texture and taste.

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I did not get a chance to try any of the chicken, though.

As for the weather, it was damn hot, the beginning of a seven-day heatwave. I sweated buckets and was happy to find myself in the air conditioning afterwards; we headed to MOMI to catch a movie, then over to a nearby pub for more A/C, conversation, and project planning—more on that later. And since we were there on the early side, it was nice to have a chance to chat with our hosts.

Thanks to Josh and Kristin for a delicious afternoon!

Happy New Year’s Ghee

Happy New Year, everyone! 2013 marks the return of Harmonious Belly. It’s been six months (just about) since I wrote my last post and I am hopeful that that long of a break will never happen again. So what have I been up to?

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Well, my book – Food Lovers’ Guide to Queens – was published in December. Between the time I submitted my original manuscript in late June, there were bouts of additional editing. I enjoyed the process, and have learned a lot about book publishing during it all. It was released on December 4, 2012.

After it was released, I gave a number of interviews, which was a lot of fun. Some were on the phone, some were in person. I spoke to bloggers and reporters. Here are a couple of links:

Food Guide Unlocks Borough’s Culinary Door [Queens Gazette]
Blogger Pens Foodie Guide to Queens [DNAinfo]

I still plan to go on food explorations throughout Queens, but these days I’m cooking a lot more at home, and feeding myself more nutrient-dense foods.

Also, in August, I started working as the Editor of QueensNYC.com, a newish website all about Queens – food, real estate, evens, and news. I’ve learned an awful lot about blogging, writing, and Queens.

But back to the food. This weekend I tried my hand at making homemade ghee. This is essentially clarified butter that is cooked a little longer so that some of the milk solids brown and caramelize. That is what gives ghee the classic nutty flavor. It has a higher smoke point than plain butter, too, and can sit out on the counter without going bad, but I will likely keep mine in the fridge anyway (ideally, I like to keep my counters relatively free of stuff).

I used this recipe from Nom Nom Paleo. I started with a pint of raw butter – look at how beautiful and yellow it is! If I hadn’t had the raw butter I would have used something like Kerrygold – using grass-fed butter is important to me.

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Then I turned on the heat and let it go for about 15 minutes at a very low temperature. The butter melted completely in that time and started to separate into fat and milk solids.

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Then I turned up the heat a little to get more separation going. There was mild bubbling and frothing going on. I scraped the bottom of the pan and felt that some of the milk solids had fallen to the bottom of the pan, as was expected, and they were a beautiful amber color.

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I turned off the heat and removed some of the remaining milk solids with a big slotted spoon, discarded them, then poured the liquid through a sieve lined with a couple layers of cheesecloth. Here is what remained in the sieve.

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And here is the end result! Sure, there is a little bit of froth, still, but I’m not worried about that.

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It’s dark now but will lighten up as it cools. I have a whole pint to use. My understanding is that it will keep for a year in the fridge (I’m sure I’ll use it up before then). I tasted it and it is delicious – love the nutty flavor.

I’m really excited to use my ghee in cooking! I plan to make black eyed pea curry soon, so the ghee will be perfect for that. A lot of Ethiopian recipes ask for a spiced ghee called niter kibbeh, which I’d like to try next time. I adore Ethiopian food, and it is not available really here in Queens, so I’d like to try my hand at making it myself.

Overall, I would say that making ghee is pretty easy. The whole process took about a half hour from the time I put the butter in the pan to the time I strained it into the jar. It’s definitely worth giving it a try.

Get To Know Nourishing New York

Not long ago, my friend Sarah launched a service called Nourishing New York, where she provides traditional foods for purchase. I thought it was a wonderful project/business and wanted to learn more about it, and share it here. I hope you enjoy learning about Nourishing New York, and please give Sarah some of you business if you are local and so inclined.

Tell us a little bit about yourself.

My name is Sarah Milcetic. I’ve been living in Astoria, Queens for about 8 years and I live with my husband, 10 month old son and our pack of cats. We had up to five cats at one point when we were fostering. My education is in Psychology, Environmental Science and Web development. I’ve been working from home for almost 5 years, creating websites for small businesses and individuals (designedbysarah.com).

I’m also very passionate about sustainable and non-toxic living, which I write about – among other things – on my personal blog (arealhousewifeofnyc.com).

Tell me a little about Nourishing New York. Why did you call it that? Why did you start it?

About a year and a half ago I joined a meetup.com group called the Traditional Community Kitchen. Through the group I learned about eating nutrient dense foods, prepared in traditional ways. I slowly started incorporating these foods and methods into my diet.

I have several friends who are interested in adding some of these same foods to their diets but have either been intimidated to get started or haven’t found the time yet. Since I’ve been feeling really passionate about traditional foods and I’ve always loved to cook and be in the kitchen, I thought I could spend a little more time in the kitchen and make extras of the foods I’m already preparing for my family.

I decided to use the name Nourishing New York because the recipes I use are based on recipes from Nourishing Traditions. I was originally thinking of Nourishing Astoria but didn’t want to exclude anyone outside of Astoria.

Continue reading “Get To Know Nourishing New York”

How To Make Water Kefir

If you’ve been watching my Harmonious Belly Facebook page over the past couple of months, you know that I’ve been doing a lot with water kefir. It’s been really interesting, a lot of fun, and yields a very tasty beverage. I’ve gotten some positive feedback on the water kefir drinks I’ve created, so I must be doing something right. I thought I’d share a little bit of what I’ve learned. I tend to take a simple approach to making this probiotic beverage, and some of my practices may be controversial, but they have served me well so far.

1. I bought my kefir grains from Cultures For Health. They arrived dehydrated and I rehydrated them with water and organic sugar. It was very easy to do this. Instructions come with the kefir grains.

I had heard that water kefir grains were more crystaline than dairy kefir grains. I was under the impression that they were hard, like actual crystals. Turns out they are soft, and you could crush them with little effort between your fingers. From a visual standpoint, though, they do look like bits of crystals.

2. I use regular old tap water to make my water kefir. NYC has some of the tastiest water in the country – we drink our water at home pretty much exclusively from our tap. NYC water also contains both chlorine and fluoride, which some people really don’t want to ingest. I have not run into any problems with them from a robust fermentation standpoint.

Most literature on water kefir says to avoid water with these things added to it. If I could easily and practically avoid them, I would. You may prefer to get rid of the chlorine (not much can be done about the fluoride), and that is done by boiling the water and letting it sit overnight. I’ve also read that you can just let it sit out for 24 hours and the chlorine will evaporate.

I could put my water through a Britta or PUR type filter, but I really hate that everything involved with a filter like this is plastic-based. I really don’t want to add more plastic to my life. Plus they are not cheap. So, after taking all things into account – convenience and cost being the primary issues – I decided to experiment with plain tap water. I have had great success – my grains are healthy, not slimy and  they have no off odor or color. I check them each time I make a new batch of kefir.

Continue reading “How To Make Water Kefir”

Queens Swap This Weekend

I’ve talked a little bit about this over social media, but wanted to write about it here – the next Queens Swap is this weekend!

We – myself, and my friends Judith and AJ – will be holding it at Sweet Afton, one my favorite Astoria institutions. It’s a wonderful gastropub that serves one of the best burgers in the neighborhood (they use a blend of meats from Pat La Frieda), and they were the first to bring fried pickles to the area, which have been a smashing success. I also love their cocktails – last time I had the spicy margarita, it was really spicy!

They also are one of the few places in town that tap a cask ale – a naturally fermented beer.

The space is also beautiful, made from reclaimed materials. It’s dark and cozy, with lots of wood.

We’re grateful to the guys behind Sweet Afton for lending us the space for a few hours. The swap will take place on Sunday, February 19 from 4-6:30pm. As usual, homemade, home grown, and personally foraged foods are welcome. I’ll be bringing some water kefir soda – probably raspberry, blueberry, and lime-ginger – and some almond shortbread. Maybe something else, but for now it’s the kefir and shortbread.

So, if you are in the NYC area – especially in Queens – I encourage you to sign up and come swap. It should be a really good time. Here’s an easy way to register, too:

See you on Sunday!