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Making Mascarpone Cheese

mascarpone

This week I’m working on adapting a favorite carrot cake recipe to accommodate soaking the flour ahead of time. Soaking the flour will break down its phytic acid, making it more easily digestible. And while I was able to make other adjustments pretty easily, one sticking point was what to put on top of the cake.  The recipe calls for a cream cheese frosting, which is a perfect thing to put on a carrot cake, but it seems a shame to use a highly processed product like commercial cream cheese on top of this wonderfully earthy cake.   Fortunately, I was able to come up with an excellent solution: mascarpone cheese.

So, a little while ago, my friend Judith had a recipe of hers featured in one of the top slots on Foodbuzz.  Nearby was another featured recipe, this one for homemade mascarpone cheese.  I took a look at the recipe, and realized that I had found my solution right there!  Mascarpone is a little bit softer and creamier than cream cheese, but for my purposes, it’s perfect.

Making mascarpone at home takes a just little bit of time, and the process is pretty straightforward.  The resulting product is fresh, creamy, and delicious.  And you know exactly what you’re getting because you made it.

March 2010

Mascarpone Cheese
Adapted from a recipe from Teenie Cakes

2 cups heavy cream (I used raw cream)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Fill a saucepan with enough water so that when a heat-resistant bowl is set on top of it, the water touches the bottom of the bowl. This will be your double boiler setup.  Normally you don’t want the water to touch the upper pan, but in this case, it is desirable.

Bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low so the water is at a simmer. Pour the cream into bowl, then place it on top of the saucepan. Heat the cream, stirring often with a whisk, to 190 degrees for about 15-20 minutes.

Add lemon juice and continue heating the mixture, stirring gently until the cream curdles. The whipping cream will become thicker and should evenly and thickly cover the back of a wooden spoon.  The curds will be very, very small, almost imperceptible; the thickening of the cream is the key.

Remove the bowl from the saucepan and cool for about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, line a strainer with four layers of cheesecloth, run water over it to dampen the cheesecloth, and set the strainer over a large bowl. Transfer the mixture into the lined strainer. Do not squeeze the cheese in the cheesecloth or press on its surface. Once cooled completely, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate (in the strainer) overnight or up to 24 hours.  The cheese will drain during this time.

The next day, remove cheese from the bowl and strainer, transferring it to another bowl. The mascarpone will be removable as once solid piece.  Stir it, and you will see how magically creamy it has become!

Make approximately 12 oz.

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Freekeh Pilaf

bowl of freekeh pilaf

I had the opportunity to order through my CSA a couple of unusual and interesting whole grains:  freekeh and farro (aka emmer wheat).  Now, farro I was familiar with, but freekeh was a little bit of a mystery. I was definitely intrigued; they arrived a few weeks ago.

Turns out, freekeh is a pretty amazing grain.  It’s known throughout the Arab world as farik, and has been around for a long time – it was recorded in an 13th century cookbook as farikiyya.  Freekeh is young wheat or spelt that is roasted or smoked just before it reaches maturity.   It looks a little like brown rice but bigger, though some say it looks like large green bulgur.

soaked freekeh grains

It is high in minerals, vitamins, and protein than many other whole grains, and four times the fiber of brown rice.  It’s also very, very low in gluten, as it is harvested before it starts to develop.

I wanted to come up with something to do with these grains.  With grains, I do three different things with them:  I soak, sprout, and ferment them.  I chose to soak the freekeh with a little bit of acid; I used raw apple cider vinegar, but lemon juice would do just fine.  The helps to break up the phytic acid, which inhibits the absorption of all those amazing minerals in the freekeh.

I remembered that when I was back in grad school I would use leftover brown rice in a throw together pilaf of sorts – the grain combined with a vegetable, some kind of dried fruit, and nuts.  It was extremely cost-efficient and filling, and most importantly, it was extremely tasty.

raw mushrooms

I wanted rich, savory flavors in my pilaf, so I chose mushrooms (umami!), and I also had dried apricots and almonds in the house, so I went with those.  The resulting combination was delicious and I loved it.  The grains are chewy and toothsome, a little sweet and nutty, and quite filling, what with all that fiber.  The mushrooms and onions add a nice savoriness, and the nuts and dried apricots add a crunchy and sweet-tang to break up the rich flavors throughout.  A very satisfying dish, overall.  I hope you like it.

freekeh pilaf

Freekeh Pilaf

1 cup dry freekeh
water for soaking, plus 1 cup for cooking
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

1 small red onion, diced
1 tablespoon of butter
10 oz mushroom caps, chopped
extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon celtic sea salt
2 medium cloves garlic, pressed or minced
red wine, for deglazing
1/4 cup slivered almonds
1/2 cup chopped dried apricots
salt and pepper

Soak the freekeh in water and 1 teaspoon vinegar for 8-12 hours. Drain and rinse. Combine the freekeh with another cup of water in a saucepan, bring it to a boil, then cover and let cook on low heat until the freekeh has steamed and absorbed all the water.

Cook onion in butter until it caramelizes a bit. Add mushrooms to the onions, add a glug of olive oil and salt. Let the mushrooms release their juices.

Add the pressed/minced garlic to the onion-mushroom mixture. Cook until the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms start to sear. De-glaze with red wine.

Add the steamed freekeh to the mushrooms, onions, and garlic. Stir to combine. Add the slivered almonds. Stir to combine. Finally, add the chopped apricots. Stir to combine.  Let cook for another 5 minutes.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serves 6-8.

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Sprouted Lentil Soup

sprouted lentil soup

So, last week I showed you how to sprout lentils, and also mentioned how they make for a delicious sprouted lentil soup.  I made such a soup last week; it was a perfect dish for a cold winter night, and my household enjoyed it immensely.

The original recipe specifies using lentils du puy, a lovely little french lentil.  To be honest, I’ve never tried sprouting these lentils, but I think it would be worth a shot.  I used brown lentils, which are more common.

My favorite moment when making this soup is toward the beginning of the cooking process.  Onions, leeks, and garlic cook with thyme and cumin, and it smells amazing.  They don’t call them aromatics for nothing!  I feel like I could eat just that sometimes.

onions, carrots, celery

The soup recipe came from an old copy of Food & Wine, in an article about Bobbi Brown, the founder of the cosmetics company bearing her name.  She originally got the recipe from the  Barefoot Contessa Cookbook.

I halved the recipe; a full recipe will make 8 pints of soup!  You can, of course, double what I indicate below, as it would be an excellent way to feed an army of people.  This soup tastes even better the day after.  It also freezes beautifully.  Enjoy with a red wine of your choice (perhaps the same kind you put in the soup).

Sprouted Lentil Soup
adapted from the Barefoot Contessa Cookbook

1/2 pound sprouted lentils
a generous glug of olive oil, plus more for serving
1 large onion
2 medium garlic cloves
3 large leeks, whited and tender green parts only, chopped
celtic sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 tablespoon chopped thyme
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
4 celery ribs, cut into 1/4 inch dice
3 medium carrots, cut into 1/4 inch dice
1 1/2 quarts chicken stock or water
1 pint crushed tomatoes
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons dry red wine
freshly grated parmesan cheese for serving

Heat the olive oil in a large pot.  Add the onions, garlic, leeks, 1/2 tablespoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of pepper, the thyme and cumin, and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very tender, 15-20 minutes.

Add the celery and carrots and cook until they begin to soften, about 10 minutes.  Ad the stock/water, crushed tomatoes, tomato paste, and sprouted lentils to the pot.  Increase the heat to high, cover and bring to a boil. Uncover, reduce the heat to moderate and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender, about an hour.

Stir in the red wine and season with salt and pepper to taste.  Serve hot with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of parmesan.

Makes 8 cups.

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Sprouting Lentils

I love sprouting lentils.  It’s easy to do, fun to watch the lentils grow their little sprout tails, and by doing this their nutritional value gets a big boost.  Sprouting also makes them easier to digest by neutralizing the phytic acid, which is found in all grains and seeds.  Additionally, sprouted lentils provide two amino acids – methionine and cystine – that unsprouted lentils do not.

Throughout history, sprouting has been a traditional treatment of seeds and grains prior to eating.  The Chinese knew about the benefits of sprouting centuries ago, sprouting mung beans in order to prevent scurvy (germinated seeds contain vitamin C ).  In the West, myriad beers were made from sprouted grains.

lentils under water

lentils after first soaking

Your lentils must be organic; conventionally grown lentils will not sprout.  Sprouting should only take a couple of days from start to finish.  I like to use a colander as the vessel for my lentil sprouting.  Here is a reasonable timeline:

  • In the evening put the lentils in a bowl and cover with water.
  • The next morning, rinse the lentils in a colander, and shake out as much water as you can.  Leave the lentils in the colander, and place it on a plate covered with a towel.  Cover the lentils with another towel and set someplace where the lentils will be undisturbed.
  • That evening, repeat the process.  The next morning, repeat the process.
  • That evening, your lentils should have little sprouts coming out of them!

You can repeat this for a couple more days, depending on how long you want the sprouts to be.  For lentils, it’s best for the sprouts to be no longer than a quarter inch.

rinsed lentils

baby sprouts

So, how do they taste?  As delicious as unsprouted lentils.  Just like with any legume, it’s best to not eat them raw.  They are great lightly steamed, or used in my favorite way, in delicious sprouted lentil soup.

Happy sprouting!

sprouts up close

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Socca

socca round

Socca, too me, has always had an exotic aura about it.   From time to time I’d imagine what it might be like to eat it while lingering on vacation in the south of France, enjoying this chickpea crepe on a lazy afternoon in sea-salted air.

I wondered if it needed special ingredients that you could only get abroad.  Well, the answer is… no.  Turns out it’s simple, unpretentious food, made with only a handful of ingredients. My favorite!

I was inspired most recently to make socca after going through the little bags of flours in my pantry, and putting some of them in glass jars that I bought on the weekend. I had the majority of a bag of chickpea flour sitting on the shelf, left over from making baked sweet potato falafel a while back.  The flour didn’t all fit in my glass jar, so I thought why not use some of it up. Socca came to mind immediately.

socca batter in the pan

socca slice new

I first checked for the recipe in one of my favorite cookbooks, but turns out that particular recipe called for an addition of a cup of white flour, something I wasn’t too keen on. So, I turned to the interwebs for guidance. I came across David Lebowitz’s recipe, which was simple and straightforward in its ingredients, and was exactly what I was looking for (and no white flour).

It was delicious!  Very easy to make, consisting of five ingredients that come together effortlessly.  It was well-received in my household, so much so that I plan to make it regularly.  This summer I’ll be eating it with an ice cold glass of rosé.

Socca
from David Lebowitz’s The Sweet Life in Paris

I found it to be easier to heat up the initial pan of olive oil on top of the stove instead of in the oven with the broiler. This also means there is one less scary grab of a hot hot hot pan handle.  Socca is also naturally gluten free.

1 cup (130g) chickpea flour
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (280ml) water
3/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cumin
2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
freshly-ground black pepper, plus additional sea salt and olive oil for serving

Mix together the flour, water, salt, cumin, and 1 1/2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Let batter rest at least 2 hours, covered, at room temperature.

To cook, heat the broiler in your oven. Oil a 9- or 10-inch (23cm) pan (I use a well-seasoned cast iron skillet) with the remaining olive oil and heat the pan on top of the stove (you can heat it in your oven if you prefer).

Once the pan and the oven are blazing-hot, pour enough batter into the pan to cover the bottom, swirl it around, then pop it back in the oven.

Bake until the socca is firm and beginning to blister and burn. The exact time will depend on your broiler.

Slide the socca out of the pan onto a cutting board, slice into pieces, then shower it with coarse salt, pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil.

Cook the remaining socca batter the same way, adding a touch more oil to the pan between each one.

Makes about three 9 10-inch (23cm) pancakes

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Raw Carrot Apple Salad

Have you ever made a dish that crazy exceeded your expectations?  I have, and it comes in the form of a raw carrot apple salad.  These two simple ingredients, when mixed together with some citrus juices and a few spoonfuls of currants, are transformed into a wonderful salad that is refreshing and delicious.

carrot apple salad smiling

Mixing carrots and apples together is a classic approach.  I can remember numerous potlucks from my youth that featured a carrot apple salad, more often than not laced with jello or mayonnaise (or possibly even Miracle Whip), sometimes with pineapple or pecans added.

The jello ones were never finished.

carrots and apples

lemon zest

This salad has none of those creamy, fruity, or nutty extras in it.  Its beauty is in its simplicity.

According to the cookbook Sundays at the Moosewood, this salad is Czech in origin.  In that book, the dish is called apple and carrot confetti.  No matter what you call it, it’s delicious.

carrot apple salad

So, I’m fond of taking this carrot apple salad to potlucks, especially in the summertime.  It’s naturally vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, raw, and sugar-free, so it caters to almost any dietary restriction you might encounter.  It’s also light and refreshing, and goes well with light summer fare. It even is suitable for brunch!

Raw Carrot Apple Salad

I have left out the sugar that was indicated in the original recipe; I find that this salad really doesn’t need it. If you wish it to be sweeter, best to use a sweeter apple.

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
2 cups grated apples (about 4)
2 cups grated carrots
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons currants
1/4 teaspoon salt, to taste

Combine lemon and orange juice in a large bowl.  Grate the apples directly into the citrus juices to avoid oxidation of the apples.  Toss the apples with the rest of the ingredients and serve immediately.

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Quick Steel Cut Oats

steel cut oats nom nom nom

Usually, the words “quick” and “steel cut oats” do not go together when you’re talking about preparation of this delicious grain.  Usually one must cook the oats for a minimum of 30 minutes or so before they are edible, which is a lot longer than the more attractive five minutes it takes to whip up a bowl of rolled oats.

For years I wanted to try steel cut oats – a minimally processed grain, with a nutty flavor, and lower glycemic index than its rolled sibling – but was really put off by the cooking time.  30 minutes spent over a hot stove in the morning before going to work?  No way.  And I’ve preferred something like pancakes, eggs, and/or bacon on the weekends, when I had the time I could devote to cooking the oats.

If you soak them the night before, it accomplishes two things:  1) it breaks up the phytic acid and the oats, therefore increasing their nutritional value, and 2) it gets something delicious in your belly in about 5 minutes, and becomes a realistic weekday breakfast option.

The soaking has completely changed the way I eat steel cut oats forever.  I rarely make rolled oats for breakfast anymore.  Steel cut oats all the way!  Yummeh.

Quick Steel Cut Oats

These are great just with cold raw milk.  Other successful additions include cinnamon, dried fruits, nuts, and seeds.  Fresh fruit is another addition, but I have found that I prefer dried fruits.  Also, be sure to soak the oats in a non-reactive bowl – I prefer tempered glass to just about anything else.

1/2 cup dry steel cut oats
1/2 cup water
pinch of base (baking soda); or, a splash of vinegar, lemon juice, or kefir; or, a small bit of yogurt

At night, combine 1/2 c oats with 1/2 c water and the acid or base.  Let it sit out overnight, covered by a towel.

Then, in the morning, dump the oats (which have swelled up with water) into a pot, and add a half cup more of water. Heat it up until the rest of the water absorbs and the oats become a porridge consistency, 3-5 minutes.

Serve with cold, raw milk, and fruit/nut combinations if you like.

Eat it up!  Makes two portions.