Eat the Web, 7/30/13

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Now that it’s summer, that means it’s cholado season—icy, fruity, sweet, and tangy magic from Colombia.

Hunter Angler Gardener Cook talks about gooseberries, and the fact that there are 100 varieties in North America. Amazing photos inside.

We Heart Astoria‘s contributor Anne Noyes Saini tells us where to have iftar—the meal that breaks the fast during Ramadan—in Astoria. So comprehensive!

Serious Eats published another “One Minute Meal” video—this time about the Sainted Arepa Lady (her arepas are outstanding) on Roosevelt Ave in Jackson Heights.

The NY Times shares two recipes for tomatillo salsa. I love tomatillos and these salsas look great.

Eating in Translation wrote about Cafe Avat, a Central Asian (Kyrgyz) restaurant in the Bath Beach section of Brooklyn. I’ll be eating there mid-August!

Hyosun Ro of Korean Bapsang shares gorgeous photos of some of her favorite things—vegetables, wild berries, blue crabs, and more.

Did you catch my meal report on Tacos Morelos yesterday? Tlacoyos!

On the subject of masa, the LA Times highlights the bone marrow sopes from Javier Plascencia’s Romesco in Bonita, CA (“just a few minutes south of San Diego”).

Tastoria Queens reports on a new arm of the awesome Arepas Cafe—Arepas Grill!

Jason Kottke, via market researcher Clotaire Rapaille, points out the differences in the way Americans and the French view cheese (dead vs. alive).

If you haven’t been yet, Hog Days of Summer is rad—whole hog barbecue, complete with fixins. Tickets here for the 8/17/13 LIC edition.

Serious Eats Sweet gives us a first look at Doughnuttery, a new donuts spot in Chelsea Market.

Tlacoyos and More at Tacos Morelos in Jackson Heights

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This past weekend, I met up with a group of friends and headed out to Tacos Morelos, a Mexican restaurant on the east end of Jackson Heights that makes traditional antojitos and platters of food. Morelos is a Mexican State south of Mexico City. When I sat down, I was given a menu almost immediately. I was looking forward to digging into it and seeing what they had to offer.

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I was happy to see a lot of familiar fare—tacos, huaraches, quesadillas, cemitas, tortas. Also, there were the less common tlacoyos, which excited me. And then the even less familiar tacos placeros, which, according to Sara Markel-Gonzalez of Serious Eats, the term tacos placeros “means different things to different people, but generally are tacos that you can buy in an outdoor plaza in Mexico, usually inexpensive, made with a variety of fillings, but simply prepared.” I expect I could have bought them from the street vendors in downtown Cancun when I was there years ago.

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Parque las Palapas in Cancun, Mexico.

You can see the food vendor area in the distance. At that point in time I was not open to eating street food much, so I abstained. You better believe I’d be all over that now!

Anyway, about those tacos placeros—I remember seeing one on the menu that included potatoes, and there was also a chile relleno taco. I think next time I’m there I’m going to try them.

The first thing that came out to the table was chips and salsa. The chips were good—nice and light, and came with an excellent salsa that had visible bits of onion and cilantro in it. I also loved the color; the black specks are likely bits of charred chiles. It wasn’t very spicy but had great flavor, and we finished it off pretty quickly.

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For drinks, people at our table ordered beer (Modelo, Pacifico) or micheladas. This Mexican beer cocktail has become easier to find in NYC recently, but for a while there were only a few places (that I knew of) that served them. A basic michelada is essentially beer, lime, and salt. But more commonly they contain hot sauce in addition to the lime and salt.

You can also add chamoy syrup, which contributes an additional tang. A few years back, a friend who lived in Mexico City for a few years showed me how to make a michelada. She got chamoy flavored candy at a local bodega and melted it so that we could taste it; that’s what’s on the rim of the glass. I have had a devil of a time finding chamoy syrup proper in NYC. Here are the micheladas from that evening in 2010:

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And here are the micheladas from Tacos Morelos.

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You can see that they were pretty popular! And rightly so—they were extremely tasty. I loved the sourness of the lime, the spice of the hot sauce, and the salt rim was also good.

I, on the other hand, got something non-alcoholic; I was going to a whiskey and bourbon tasting later that evening, so I thought it would be best to pace myself (I have a terribly low tolerance for alcohol). I chose a mora batida—a blackberry shake—with milk. Usually when you order them, they’ll ask you if you want your batida made with water or milk, and I always go with milk, since I like a richer shake.

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It was gorgeous and delicious, with plenty of flavor. I loved the bubbly top of the batida.

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One of our eating companions got a piña colada, which was refreshing and sweet, and quite strong.

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There were a few more piña coladas served to our table later in the meal, too!

Across the table, Jen ordered sopes, another masa-based dish, related to the tlacoyo and huarache. They were three grilled discs of masa topped with beans and chorizo, as well as lettuce and crema. I didn’t get to taste them but she said they were delicious.

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Sopes are one of my favorite things to order in Mexican restaurants here in NYC.

As I mentioned, there were tlacoyos on the menu. I love the word, which has origins in the Nahuatl language, an indigenous language to Mexico and greater Mesoamerica. In this language, the word tlacoyos comes from the Nahuatl word tlatlaolli, which essentially means “ground corn dough.” They are made from masa and shaped into a long torpedo shape. It’s easy to liken them to huaraches, but in my experience huaraches are much larger.

The tlacoyos, about three inches wide and six inches long, came three to a plate ($7.50). I got mine with al pastor (recommended by the wait staff over the carnitas, when it came to pork) with a green sauce, and another person got it topped with goat and a red sauce. Both were excellent! I loved how they were stuffed with mashed black beans, too.

The salsas were spicy and flavorful, but not killer in the heat department (though the red was hotter than the green). I also liked the addition of crema, too, and felt like it tied everything together with its slight tang and creaminess.

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Tlacoyos with al pastor and green sauce.

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Tlacoyos with goat and red sauce.

Tacos Morelos also offers platters of food, and my friend Mark ordered chicken in salsa mora, a specialty at Tacos Morelos. The chile mora is a dried and smoked chile, similar to a chipotle. Lesley Téllez of The Mija Chronicles, talks about the chile mora:

It’s a smoked, dried jalapeño, and therefore classified as a chipotle. But it’s a bit sweeter and more raisin-like than the brown chipotles you see in the markets. It’s also not as hot. (The chile morita, a cousin, is much spicier.)

Mark said the burn was easy at first and increased as he ate it, finishing with something quite hot. I tasted it and really enjoyed the flavor, but only caught the early, baby burn.

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Note the avocado on his plate, some of which ended up on my tlacoyos, because I like avocado on pretty much anything. They were nice, ripe, creamy slices, too.

Another platter of food was ordered, which looks like mole poblano. Whatever it was, it looks fantastic! I’ll have to find out what it was.

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Platters also came with a beautiful plate of black beans and rice. I didn’t try it, but according to Serious Eats, the beans are flavored with epazote, an herb used in traditional Mexican cooking.

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I loved the food here, and look forward to my next trip back. The service was also good and I got to use some of my high school Spanish, always a good thing. It was pretty warm in there, though, with no A/C or visible fans, but despite that I would return in a heartbeat. It’s always good to find well-prepared Mexican food in NYC.

Tacos Morelos, 94-13 37th Ave., Jackson Heights, NY 11372, (347) 832-0193, Yelp, VV, SE 

What’s On the Menu at Sage General Store

Sage General Store, a locavore/farm-to-table restaurant in Long Island City, is one of my favorite spots in the area. I’ve really enjoyed the food there over the years, and one of my favorite things they serve is at brunch—chilaquiles.

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I’m also a big fan of their bacon brunch plate, too.

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Recently, though, they made some changes—they expanded and added more seats to the dining room, and added some things to the menu. With my We Heart Astoria colleagues, I was invited to try some of the current menu items; our group review is over at the site. I wanted to share photos of my very favorite dishes of that evening.

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This raspberry lemonade is something I’ve drunk at Sage many times. I love how sweet tart it is and the color is gorgeous; I did not amp up the color in any way in this photo, that’s just the way it is. They also serve a lovely ginger mint iced tea, too, but I just love this lemonade. Along with tasting great, it’s very cheery.

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I’m a huge guacamole fan and will eat it whenever it is presented to me. I had never eaten it with tostones before, though, but they are wonderful with guac! And for those for whom it’s an issue, they are another gluten-free option as a dipper. I loved the flavor combination, too. Sage’s guacamole was wonderfully creamy, such a delight. Good guacamole is a blessing.

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As I mentioned in our review, “Coming from California, fish tacos are (along with guacamole) an informal official state dish.” They always catch my eye on a menu, and these fish tacos were excellent. Note how fresh everything looks, along with the presence of that guacamole again. The tortillas are corn, and there was a nice chipotle crema running through each taco. Love the jicama slaw, a vegetable that always brings back memories of the California of my youth (jicama was ubiquitous there in the 1980s).

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I’ll go on record saying I dislike Kraft Macaroni & Cheese, as well as their “healthier” alternatives from companies like Annie’s. I just don’t think it tastes very good, what with its weak cheese coating and lack of flavor. With that in mind, I just want to say, thank goodness for real, homemade macaroni and cheese. This was made with five—count ’em, 5—different kinds of cheese. I also liked the little crispy breadcrumbs on the top. This mac and cheese was everything the boxed stuff is not—creamy, fatty, and delicious. It was a big hit at our table.

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We tried a variety of desserts and this one won my heart. This is serious chocolate, and I loved how moist the cake was, especially. I thought it was beautiful, too—just look at that sheen on the top of the cake!

And that’s that. We ate a number of other things, too, including beets, polenta, chicken, and a few other cakes. These above I would for sure order again. In fact, what’s displayed would make for a pretty nice dinner, I’d say! I look forward to my next meal there.

Sage General Store, 24-20 Jackson Ave, Long Island City, NY 11101, (718) 361-0707, www.sagegeneralstore.com

Eat the Web, July 23, 2013

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These fish tacos at Sage General Store in LIC are fantastic! Love the accompanying jicama slaw, too.

ABC News tells us that the appendix may actually have a real use: reserving good bacteria for our gut.

NPR published a great story on Georgian grilled meats and why they are so tasty (hint: it’s the grape leaves).

Real Cheap Eats published their mondo Summer 2013 guide to 50 cheap eats around NYC, yum. Bring me a plate of green bean jelly sheet noodles, stat!

The NY Times features Kesso Foods, a tiny Greek yogurt factory in Astoria Heights/East Elmhurst.

Over on We Heart Astoria I share some great cold drink options in Astoria/LIC.

Thug Kitchen published a recipe for stuffed peppers that sounds absolutely scrumptious. Vegetarian, of course.

The NY Times visits Mamak House in Flushing, a relatively new Malaysian restaurant, which I can’t wait to try.

Serious Eats tells us about some excellent small gorditas found in the Bronx. They should be in my belly, like, yesterday.

On 101 Cookbooks, this recipe for avocado coconut oil tartines caught my eye.

The NY Times filmed an important video, Occupy Bakery.

Georgian Khachapuri, My Latest Obsession

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Adjaruli Khachapuri, a variety of the famous Georgian cheese bread. Image source: DanielSedoff on Wikimedia Commons

Actually, Georgian food as a whole is on my mind, but khachapuri, the ubiquitous Georgian cheese bread, in particular has really caught my attention. But let me back up a little bit and wander slightly away from bread and into the greater Georgian cuisine.

I first got a taste of Georgian food during an evening in 2009 of The Sunday Night Dinner, which is an underground supper club run by my friend Tamara. The title of that evening’s dinner was Ramadan, Deconstructed, With A Little Georgian Influence. The food was spectacular—here is the menu from that night:

Spicy Caramel Popcorn
Fatoush
Grilled Duck with Tomato/Sesame/Saffron Sauce
Rice Pilaf with those Dates
Green Beans with Cinnamon and Clove and a Garlic Yogurt Sauce*
Beets with Sour Cherry Sauce*
Qatayef married to Jean Halberstrom’s Fried Peaches

The two dishes I marked with an asterisk were the Georgian dishes. I absolutely loved them! They had fresh, vibrant flavors that really took my palate by storm. Here’s a shot of the green bean dish—that is a fantastic amount of mint, too.

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And as a lover of beets, you can bet I was really into the beets with sour cherry sauce dish. Sadly, I did not take a photo of it. I probably was so eager to dig in, I forgot to pull out my camera for that.

As an aside, the other dishes that night were absolutely delicious, including the amazing dessert of peaches and qatayef, a kind of pancake popular during Ramadan that is often filled with things like cheese or nuts). In fact, as I write this we are in the middle of Ramadan, and one of my favorite shops on Steinway, Al-Sham Sweets, makes a wonderful version.

But back to Georgian food. I think some of the reasons I like this particular cuisine are how flavorful the food is, as well as the Middle Eastern and Central Asian influences. There are plenty of fresh vegetables, meats (grilled meats known as shashlik, and sausages, such as kupati, both popular in the Kakheti region), yogurt and cheeses, pickles, walnuts, fresh herbs, plus there are the giant dumplings, khinkali. They look like soup dumplings and are filled with broth and beef. Regarding khinkali, I really like this video—I can’t understand Russian (yet), but love that they make the dough from scratch, and show how to cook and eat the dumplings (including a “Master Khinkali”—indeed, it’s big).

Georgia also has a long tradition of wine making—as far back as 6,000 BCE—with vines throughout the country. In the earliest days of wine making, they’d bury wine in pits and let it ferment over winter.

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Georgian grapevines. Image source: Wikimedia Commons 

According to Wikipedia, “wine is made in the regions of Kakheti (further divided onto micro-regions of Telavi and Kvareli), Kartli, Imereti, Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti, and Abkhazia.” This map easily delineates the different regions in Georgia (tourists are often discouraged to visit the disputed territories of Abkhazia and South Ossetia). Apparently Kakheti is a particularly major player in the Georgian wine scene, and has been called “the cradle of wine” in the country.

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I would love to get my hands on some Georgian wines. I will do some investigating next time I’m in Rego Park and Forest Hills, an area of Queens with a Georgian population (mostly Georgian Jews who left Georgia in the late 20th century). By far, though, Georgians in NYC live in the southern part Brooklyn, and that’s where the restaurants and bakeries are. NYC is home to the largest enclave of Georgians in the United States.

But back to khachapuri. As it is so common (some people like to call it Georgian pizza, perhaps because both can be round and cheesy), there are variants. In Georgia, it will be stuffed with sulguni, a pickled cheese from the Samegrelo region, which apparently the United States doesn’t import (maybe I’ll try to make it sometime). Bakers here have figured out a workaround, and they often combine mozzarella and feta, plus butter to create as close an approximation as possible.

Many are named after their region. The most well known is the Imeretian (a.k.a. Imeruli) khachapuri. This is what most people think of when their hear khachapuri—it’s round and filled with cheese and really does look pizza-like.

Then there is the Adjarian (a.k.a. Acharuli/Adjaruli) khachapuri, which is pictured at the top of this post. That’s actually the very first style I laid eyes on (virtually). The dough is formed into a sort of open boat shape. When the bread comes out of the oven, it is topped with a raw egg and butter, which of course cooks the egg somewhat and melts the butter. I dream of eating this kind of khachapuri.

Wikipedia has a great list of regional khachapuri, including Mingrelian (Megruli), Abkhazian (Achma), Ossetian (Ossuri), Svanuri, Rachuli, and Phenovani. I’d love to try the Ossetian in particular, because of the inclusion of potato in the filling.

Some Georgian breads can be baked in an oven called a toné, which is like a tandoori oven. A convection oven is often used to make various kinds of khachapuri. Check out this great video by James Boo on Serious Eats of khachapuri—you can see examples of what looks like the Imeretian and the distinctive Adjarian types of bread.

1 Minute Meal: “Brighton Train to Georgia” from James Boo on Vimeo.

I spend so much time eating in Queens, that traveling to one of the far corners of Brooklyn is a real adventure. I expect to head down there soon, so stay tuned for a first hand report of my projected devouring of khachapuri. I plan to hit up bakeries Georgian Bread and Georgian Food a.k.a. Brick Oven Bread, both in Brighton Beach. A stop at Tibilisi Restaurant or Prisomani may also be in the cards, if only to chow down on a plate of khinkali, and maybe some borscht and eggplant with walnut paste. My mouth is watering just thinking about it all.

Carne-Val at The Meatwave – Delicious Pork Barbecue in Astoria

Last Sunday I attended a wonderful Astoria event series, The Meatwave. It’s run by local Astorian Josh Bousel, who really knows his meat and how to cook it. He (and probably his wife, Kristin) comes up with clever titles, and the one for this particular day was “Carne-val.”

There was pulled pork, pepper vinegar barbecue sauce, ribs, chicken—all grilled and/or barbecued. Plus there was a delicious mustard slaw, plenty of beer, and one of the guests offered me one of her s’mores bars. It was all so good and I’m glad I went.

Here are some of the things I ate. First, the pork in two states—whole and pulled. Here’s the before:

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And the after:

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Josh used big black rubber gloves to shred it by hand. He then poured some sort of liquid on it—probably braising liquid, which helped to keep it moist. This batch of meat was cooked in foil. There was another chunk of pork he had cooked without foil, which promised great bark. All I know is that they was truly delicious and made for a great pulled pork sandwich. Here it is—on a appropriately squishy Martin’s Potato Roll—with the aforementioned slaw.

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The ribs were great, too! I believe they were in the smoker and then grilled with a sweeter barbecue sauce. I loved the texture and taste.

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I did not get a chance to try any of the chicken, though.

As for the weather, it was damn hot, the beginning of a seven-day heatwave. I sweated buckets and was happy to find myself in the air conditioning afterwards; we headed to MOMI to catch a movie, then over to a nearby pub for more A/C, conversation, and project planning—more on that later. And since we were there on the early side, it was nice to have a chance to chat with our hosts.

Thanks to Josh and Kristin for a delicious afternoon!

Eat the Web, July 16, 2013

This is the inaugural edition of Eat the Web, a collection of links to articles and blog posts about food, that I find particularly interesting. Enjoy!

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A shot of the raw bar at Mar’s, a beautiful new speakeasy-esque bar in Astoria.

Eating The World in NYC writes about Caribbean Suriname restaurant, which has filled the void left by Warung Kario, which I loved (RIP). Thank goodness Surinamese food continues to exist in NYC.

The NY Times says goodbye to Diner’s Journal.

Tastoria Queens tells us about the intriguing Ambassador Plates program, created by Jeff Orlick, which offers an option wher ethe chef decides what to serve, for $10 or $20. Here’s Jeff’s post about it.

Serious Eats NY published a fantastic list of places to eat Chinese food in all the city (mostly Manhattan and Flushing).

Serious Eats NY also calls out the Portuguese egg tart at New Flushing Bakery, which truly is one of the great desserts in Flushing.

Narrative.ly earlier this month published a great multimedia feature called Cooking in Translation, which “profiles a Korean-born, Flushing woman and her evolving cooking traditions.”

Slate explains why the (theoretical) loss of California’s food output would create havoc in America. “The loss of California’s output would create a dire situation for at least a decade.”

The NY Daily News turns its focus on Ridgewood, Queens along the M line—Krystal European Bakery, Krolewskie Jadlo (a personal favorite), and Catania Bakery.

Eater updates their Queens heatmap for July 2013.

The New Yorker reports that Dominique Ansel Bakery, home of the cronut, created the frozen s’more this past weekend. Ansel claims these can’t be scalped like cronuts, and that you have to eat them right after purchasing them or the effect is wrecked.

birthday-cake-iconP.S. Happy birthday to me! I’ll be the one eating the nachos and watching the All Star Game at an unnamed spot in Queens.